Take It Easy, Part One
Easter Weekend, Roadside Poppies, and Ancient Ruins
Yes, I’m way overdue for a new blog post! That’s why this one will be a double-feature (Part Two to follow). I’ve crisscrossed Macedonia (and Italy) in the past month, and so much has happened that I’ve barely had time to write about it. Adventures include Matka Canyon, Easter Sunday celebrations, Stobi (ancient Archaeological site and Winery), a Macedonian Literature and Culture event put on by my 2nd-year students, my first weekend trip to Ohrid and Struga, Bajram (Eid in Macedonian), a trip to Rome and Florence with my family, a visit from the US Embassy (finally), a 5k race in Shtip with Maya, Hrithik, and Jackson, the first round of presidential elections here, and teaching kids’ Sunday school. See why I haven’t written in awhile? 😅
Starting with Matka Canyon, me and two girlfriends, Hannah and Srishti, took advantage of the gorgeous, burgeoning spring weather by hiking in one of the most ethereal spots in Macedonia. We also took a boat (with no life jackets, and operated by a teenager on his phone) to explore a small cave within the canyon. There is something so calming and yet so gripping about clear blue water and towering mountains on either side that almost forces you to be present in the moment, because you’re in awe of the grandeur around you. As it was ‘Easter Eve’, we also made dinner later to celebrate, including homemade macaroni and cheese, roasted root vegetables and ribs, as well as raspberry-white chocolate blondies made by yours truly.
The next day, April 1st, was Easter Sunday. Jackson came up from Shtip early and we played Bananagrams before going to service, then afterward had sushi for dinner with one of our friends. I ran into a work colleague on the way to dinner and got to introduce my friends to her, which was like worlds colliding but in a good way. I think it’s really fun to run into people you know outside of the usual context.
The following week, me and a couple friends ventured to another unique destination for a day trip: Stobi, site of the ancient Roman city Paeonia, and home to a superb wine region (pro tip: Macedonian wine is exquisite, and I know for a fact wine from Stobi and Tikves is sold in America, so next time you’re looking for a good wine, see if your liquor store has either one).
The drive there took about an hour, which I didn’t mind because I could admire the poppies growing alongside the road and the river flowing below as we winded through the mountain path. Unlike the Kosovo or Bulgaria trips, I didn’t drive for this one, hence my eyes not being on the road. 🙃 I was surprised by how many religious practices were evident in the old city of Paeonia – there were items dedicated to Roman gods, but also a large Basilica and a Synagogue (attesting to a 4th century Jewish presence, very interesting). The ruins also have many well-preserved mosaics and frescoes, making it easy to think about the inhabitants roughly 1,700 years ago admiring the same works.
That, in my opinion, is one of the most moving aspects of visiting historical sites; the presence of everyday items or elaborate works of art tie us all to a common humanity in which, despite centuries of separation, we feel the same joys and worries, experience rite-of-passage celebrations and routine boredoms, and show love in similar ways to those we care about.
Before I wax too poetically (too late?) about the archaeological site, let’s move onto the winery – unpretentious in appearance, yet incredibly vast and storied. We took a tour of the facility and storerooms before sitting down to a tasting menu of wines paired with aged cheeses, sarma in grape leaves, and brisket with mushrooms. I didn’t start liking wine until maybe two or three years ago, but ‘like’ doesn’t accurately describe my appreciation for the depth of flavor in the wines we tasted. The whole experience was really moderately priced as well, so I would highly recommend it to anyone.
My class of 2nd-year students invited me to their Macedonian Literature and Culture (Книжевност и Култура) event later that same afternoon, because a few of them were performing poems and a play. It was held at my university, and the Minister of Culture and her posse attended, along with many of the performers’ families. My students dressed in traditional clothes lent to them by their grandparents (so lovely) and shared their culture through story and song. It was all done in Macedonian, so I retained maybe 60%, but as one of my students, Simona, said “Hey, we love improvement!”. We took some photos afterward, and they were so grateful for the support.
I’ll leave the rest of my April adventures for ‘Take It Easy, Part Two’.
(Song Credit: The Eagles)
